First, let's deal with pattern. Do you have straight, wavy, curly or kinky pattern to your hair? On the LHC, they recommend you clarify your hair (either with shampoo or a baking soda rinse), rinse your hair and DON'T TOUCH IT AGAIN until it is COMPLETELY dry. If you manipulate your hair during the drying process, you may have different results. Also, no conditioner. We need to see your hair in its natural state.
There are 4 different patterns: Straight (1), Wavy (2), Curly (3) and Kinky (4)
The different letter modifiers after the pattern number indicate the curl strength (a/b/c).
1s: Most people with straight hair are in this category. It has little to no curl pattern, although 1b and 1c hair might have more body and/or volume to it. Your hair is easily straightened and may be hard to hold curls or waves in it - even with plenty of product and tools.
1a - Stick, straight hair. You hair has absolutely no bend to it. It is straight from root to tip.
1b - Straight hair that bends in one area - either mid-shaft or at the ends.
1c - Straight hair that is starting to form a loose "S" shape. 1c hair usually has more body and movement.
2s: Wavy hair. Hair can vary from loose ringlets (stronger "S" shape) to loose corkscrews. Your hair may or may not hold up to different curl styling. Wavy hair is finicky as it can vary from straight to curly depending on your environment, weather, dew points and other factors.
2a - Loose waves with a tighter "S" shape. 2a hair cannot decide to be straight or wavy.
2b - Stronger wave pattern is there. Looks like braid waves.
2c - Hair is not curly, but there are spirals that show up every now and again.
3s: Curls, curls and curls. People with a 3 pattern in there hair usually have spirals and ringlets in their hair that can be achieved without styling and/or products. Your hair can be prone to frizziness - especially after brushing. Hair like to stay in clumps and curl up together.
3a - Hair is mostly is ringlets and spirals. There should be 2" - 3" of shrinkage from your wet hair to dry.
3b - Tighter curl pattern. Hair likes to boing! You get anywhere from 3" - 5" shrinkage.
3c - Tightest curl before heading to "Z" curls. Shrinkage is anywhere from 5" - 7".
4s: Also know as Kinky hair. People who have 4 texture have the strongest curl pattern as, instead of "S" shapes, hair is in a "Z" pattern. Kinky hair usually responds well to heavier cream- and oil-based products.
4a - "Z" pattern hair. Hair can be difficult to straighten.
4b - An even stronger "Z" shape in the hair. Hair is also difficult to straighten.
Here is a very basic drawing I did to illustrate this: (Yes, I did it on MS Paint. Classy, right?)
Now onto your hair's texture. There are 3 different classifiers, (F) Fine, (M) Medium and (C) Coarse.
F: Fine hair is thinner in diameter. It may seem transparent when held up to light. If you run your hair in-between your fingers, you may not feel anything at all. It will feel like rubbing a thin, silk thread. Also known as "Gossamer" hair.
M: Medium hair has a bit more substance to it. Hair will feel like smooth, "all-purpose" thread when rubbed between finger pads.
C: Coarse hair is very thick. It is very thick in diameter and it should feel like thick, cotton thread on the finger pads.Many people of Asian descent or Native-American descent have coarse hair.
Here is when we measure our hair's thickness. Just because someone is classified with fine hair, doesn't mean their ponytails are more narrow. Gather your hair in a mid-ponytail without using a bulky hair tie, grab a measuring tape and measure the circumference of the ponytail.
i: Thin hair - Circumference is less than 2"
ii: Normal hair - Circumference is 2" - 4"
iii: Thick hair - Circumference exceeds 4"
For the record, when using this system, I am a 1c/F/ii:
Next up: Understanding Porosity
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